
Coco Helado
We enjoyed a few days in the Yucatan, where I went on a desperate, but unsuccessful, search for some good, hand-made coconut ice cream, a treat I look forward to when traveling south of the border. Usually it is dense, like gelato, with an intense coconut flavor. Alas, throughout Mayaland I had zero luck. In nearby Playa del Carmen the only ice cream shop is a Häagen Daz. I was very frustrated.
Back home, I have no recourse but to make some myself. I have only been able to reproduce this flavor at home with a combination of extract and real coconut, either fresh grated or pre-shredded unsweetened. Neither ingredient does the job on its own.
INGREDIENTS
3-4 cups of ice
3 cups half and half
1 (15 oz.) can coconut milk
8 egg yolks
[1/2] cup sugar
4 cups coconut, unsweetened shredded, or fresh grated
2 TB. coconut extract
1 tsp. kosher salt
METHOD
1. Fill a large bowl with ice, and set another large bowl on top of the ice. Have a strainer nearby, and set all this aside, but nearby, until custard is cooked.
2. Bring the half and half and coconut milk to a boil in a large saucepan. In a small bowl, whisk together sugar and egg yolks. At the boil, temper [1/2] cup of hot half and half into the yolks and whisk quickly to combine. Pour the warmed yolks back into the saucepan and, over high heat, whisk immediately and vigorously until the mixture begins to resemble thick cream, about 2 minutes. Strain immediately into the bowl sitting on ice. Stir periodically until cool.
3. Meanwhile, toast shredded coconut. Spread it in a thin layer on a baking sheet and bake in a 350˚F oven, stirring every 5 minutes, until the color is dark brown and even, about 20 minutes. Add hot coconut to the cooling custard, stir, and steep until cool.
4. When the custard is completely cool, strain out the shredded coconut, and squeeze out every last bit of coco-nutty custard. Stir in the extract, salt, then run through an ice cream machine, according to manufacturer's instructions. Pack the ice cream for several hours for firm scoops.
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